Retaining Wall Calculator
Blocks, caps, base gravel, leveling sand, drainage stone, perforated pipe, filter fabric and geogrid for a segmental block retaining wall. It also works out the buried course, the setback, the dig and the labour, flags when the wall needs an engineer, and draws the wall section to scale.
Retaining wall reference
Base and first course
- Buried depth
- 1 course or 10% of H
- Base, compacted
- 6″ of ¾″ minus
- Base width
- ≈ 2× block depth
- Base past the face
- 6″ in front
- Leveling sand
- ½″ max, optional
- First course
- level both ways
- Setback
- ¾–1″ per course
Drainage
- Drainage zone
- 12″ behind the block
- Drainage stone
- clean ¾″ crushed (#57)
- Hollow cores
- fill with the same stone
- Drain pipe
- 4″ perforated, at the heel
- Pipe outlets
- every 30–50 ft
- Filter fabric
- non-woven, soil side
- Soil over the stone
- 6–8″, compacted
Geogrid
- Needed
- over ≈ 3–4 ft or surcharge
- Vertical spacing
- every 2 courses
- First layer
- on top of course 1
- Length
- ≥ 0.6 H, often 4 ft min
- Strong direction
- into the slope
- At the face
- to within 1″ of the front
- Backfill
- 8″ lifts, compacted
Limits and checks
- Garden block, unreinforced
- ≈ 2 ft
- Standard units
- ≈ 3–3½ ft
- Large units
- ≈ 3½–4 ft
- Permit, engineer
- over 4 ft or surcharge
- Slope above
- flatter than 3:1 for DIY
- Terraced walls
- gap ≥ 2× lower wall
- Before digging
- call 811
Safety Call 811 before you dig. Walls over about 4 ft, measured from the bottom of the base, or with a slope, driveway or building above usually need a permit and an engineer's design. A cut bank can collapse: do not work in a trench or under a vertical cut deeper than about 4 ft, lay it back instead. Blocks weigh 25–80 lb each; cutting them makes silica dust, so cut wet and wear a respirator, eye and hearing protection.
Full notes
- The first course decides the whole wall. Set it on a compacted, level base, check every block front to back and side to side, and tap it down with a rubber mallet rather than packing material under it.
- Bury at least one full course, or about 10% of the wall height if that is more. The buried course keeps the toe from kicking out and hides the base.
- Drainage matters more than block weight: fill 12 in behind the wall and the hollow cores with clean ¾ in crushed stone, run a 4 in perforated pipe at the bottom and daylight it every 30–50 ft. Most failed walls failed because water pressure built up behind them.
- Put non-woven filter fabric between the drainage stone and the soil, not against the back of the blocks, and finish the top 6–8 in with compacted soil so surface water runs over the wall instead of into it.
- Backfill and compact in lifts of about 8 in, one or two courses at a time, using a hand tamper or a light plate within 3 ft of the wall. Never let a heavy machine near the back of a fresh wall.
- Check the maker's height chart: garden blocks are for walls up to about 2 ft, standard units about 3 ft and large units about 3½–4 ft without geogrid. Taller walls, terraced walls closer than twice the lower wall's height, or anything with a slope, driveway or building above need an engineered design and usually a permit.
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